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<  Open forum  ~  Kreem tank liner prep methods WITHOUT their prep stuff??

Deer Slayer
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:09 am Reply with quote
Junior member Junior member
Joined: 30 Oct 2007 Posts: 15 Location: Howell Michigan
I'm thinking about doing the Kreem tank liner thing to my 750 honda tank. I have the old style, (1971) with the chrome cap. Anyways, I have some phosphoric acid stuff to dissolve the rust in the tank (not much, but still want to get rid of it) which I plan to use after I use something to scrub the rust out. I've heard all kinds of ways to do this, wondering what works best that I HAVE THE MEANS to do. I'm going to take some old BBs (steel BBs for a BB gun) and shake them around after I get it rinsed out so there are no fumes. I was just wondering if there's anything else that can easily be removed to help clean any rust out of there. I DO NOT want to sand blast it, I had a friend that had a bunch of sand clump up in the corner and start coming out AFTER the lining was done. WHAT A MESS, he had to start from scratch and get a new tank. My tank isn't really rusty now, I just want to stop it from rusting any further inside. It's got some fairly minor spots up on the hump under the cap, and a few spots where it must have been sitting tipped at one time in the corner. Nothing that some phosphoric acid won't fix, I got most of it out with a wire bottle brush when I first got the bike. Nothing has shown up in the float boals, and the tank strainer or filters in quite some time. The weather is starting to break and I want to RIDE dangit!!!

Another question is they have some prep goop that comes with the kreem kit, is that necessary if I do the phosphoric acid thing, and rinse it out good?? Does it need to be It's supposed to be a degreaser, to make sure the metal doesn't have any oily residue, I was just going to spray it with brake clean inside as a final step which does an AWESOME job of degreasing anything (watching the paint OF COURSE).

The reason I ask is a gallon of kreem is $54.99, and that's supposedly enough to do 8 tanks. I'm thinking I can do my tank and make some $$$ doing other tanks for my friends. A quart of coating with the prep kit is $34.99, and that only does 2 tanks. I figure I can charge $40/tank and make some $$$ if I don't buy that kit with the prep stuff. They wouldn't sell it separate if there wasn't a way to prep it without their product. Even if it only does 5 bikes, I'm doing pretty good, and my friends will quit bugging me to clean out their carbs! Rolling Eyes
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Deer Slayer
Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:15 am Reply with quote
Junior member Junior member
Joined: 30 Oct 2007 Posts: 15 Location: Howell Michigan
I did the kreem gas tank liner stuff. I took the petcock off, and rinsed the tank out a couple times with water to kill the gas fumes. Then I put a couple hundred .177 cal BBs in the tank with some water and shook it around to knock all the rust chunks out of there.
Plugged the hole for the petcock with hot glue, you have to heat the metal up enough to melt the glue in order for it to stick. Rinsed it out again, and poured a 50/50 mix of water and Behr brand rust remover/concrete etcher (phosphoric acid). Left that for about 6 hours, and it made the inside of the tank SPOTLESS! I almost didn't want to coat it, but I remembered just how easy the tanks rust inside. Rinsed it out a couple times with water to get rid of the phosphoric acid residue. Then I put some isopropyl alcohol in there to make sure all the water was gone, and put a 100w lightbulb under it to dry it for the night. After it was good and dry, I decided to coat it. I only used 10oz of the gallon of Kreem I bought 8 is in the tank, and 2 were wasted! I just kept adding a little more every time it looked like the coating was getting a little thin. Used a turkey baster to put it in the tank. I didn't see any point in wasting it, and I was told if you put more than you need in there, you wind up with pools with a skin on top that won't cure. Sat watching the boob tube for a couple hours while rotating the tank in my lap with a fan blowing the fumes away. I'd also use a matress inflator to blow the fumes out of the tank, and that seems to have GREATLY reduced drying time. Let it dry for 3 days, it STILL smelled inside the tank when I filled it. If I blew the fumes out, it didn't smell as strong in there, but if I left it for a couple hours, it smelled strong again. Oh well, I didn't see any pools in there, and everything felt dry. It's on the bike, and I've got her running with the ney Dyna coils, DynaIII ignition, and Accel silver core 8.8mm wires on it. Cool
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